CHILE
Santiago City Guide
My honest guide to Santiago. It wasn't my favorite city, but this guide will help you navigate the good, the bad, and the underwhelming to make the most of your trip.
Quick Facts
- The Vibe: A city of contrasts. It's a sprawling, modern metropolis with a bustling financial district, but it also has a gritty, neglected side. The backdrop of the Andes is epic, but often hidden behind a thick layer of smog.
- Population: Around 7 million in the metro area.
- Language: Spanish is the official language. English is not widely spoken outside of tourist hotspots and upscale neighborhoods, so knowing some basic Spanish will go a long way.
- Currency: Chilean Peso (CLP).
- Famous For: Being Chile's political and financial center, its proximity to both the Andes mountains and the Pacific coast, and its surrounding wine valleys.
When to Visit
- 🌸Spring
A great time to visit. The weather is mild and pleasant, and the city is less crowded than in the summer. Perfect for exploring the city's parks and surrounding wine valleys.
☀️SummerIt gets hot and dry, but many locals leave the city for vacation, so it can feel less crowded. This is peak season for tourism, so book things in advance.
🍂FallAnother fantastic shoulder season with comfortable temperatures and fewer crowds. March is a great time for visiting the nearby wine regions during the harvest festivals.
❄️WinterThis is the best season for skiing in the nearby Andes. In the city, it can be cold and rainy, and the pollution is often worse due to thermal inversion.
Getting Around
Bip! Card is Essential: You absolutely need a Bip! card to use the metro and public buses. You can't pay with cash on board. You can buy and load a card at any metro station. One card can be used for multiple people—just tap it for each person.
The Metro: This will be your best friend. It’s fast, clean, and connects most of the areas you'll want to visit. The lines are color-coded and easy to navigate.
Rideshare Apps: Uber works, but it exists in a legal gray area. Drivers can be on edge, especially at night, and might ask you to sit in the front seat.
Walking: During the day, walking is a great way to explore neighborhoods like Lastarria, Barrio Italia, and Las Condes. However, I would not recommend walking around at night, especially in the downtown area, which becomes deserted and sketchy.
Safety
This is a big one. While Chile is often cited as one of South America's safest countries, Santiago has its issues, and the situation seems to be a growing concern for locals.
- Nighttime is Different: The city's vibe changes drastically after dark. Downtown (Centro Histórico) and neighborhoods like Bellavista can feel deserted and sketchy. Even my Uber drivers seemed on high alert at night, rolling up windows at stoplights. It’s best to take an Uber or pre-booked taxi directly to and from your destination after sunset.
- General Awareness: Petty theft, like pickpocketing and phone snatching, is the most common issue for tourists. Be very aware of your surroundings, especially in crowded areas like Plaza de Armas, markets, and on the metro. Don't flash expensive items.
- Neighborhoods to Be Cautious In: Downtown, Bellavista, and the area around the main bus terminal (Estación Central) require extra caution, especially at night. For accommodation, your safest bets are the upscale neighborhoods of Las Condes, Providencia, and Vitacura.
- Common Scams: Be wary of distraction techniques. The "bird poop" scam (where someone squirts a substance on you and a "helpful" local tries to rob you while "cleaning" it off) is a known trick. Also, be cautious of overly friendly people at ATMs or taxi drivers trying to switch out bills.
Areas to Stay
Las Condes / Providencia: Hands down, these are the best options for most travelers. They are modern, clean, and considered the safest parts of the city. You'll find plenty of great hotels, restaurants, and easy access to the metro.
Lastarria: A good choice if you want a more boutique, bohemian vibe. It's a charming and lively area, though you need to be mindful as it borders less safe parts of downtown.
Area to Avoid: I would personally avoid staying in the historic downtown (Centro). While fine to visit during business hours, it becomes a ghost town at night and feels unsafe.
Packing List
- Comfortable Walking Shoes: You'll still do a lot of walking during the day.
- Layers: Temperatures can vary, so pack layers you can add or remove. A light jacket is always a good idea.
- Power Adapter: Chile uses Type C and L plugs. If you're coming from the US, UK, or Australia, you will need an adapter.
- A "Nice" Outfit (for Las Condes): If you plan to dine out or go for drinks in the fancier neighborhoods, you'll feel more comfortable if you're not in hiking gear.
Practical Tips
- The Pollution is Real: Santiago sits in a valley, which traps air pollution, creating a heavy layer of smog. This is often worse in the winter. It can obscure the mountain views and might irritate people with respiratory issues.
- Tipping: A 10% tip is standard in restaurants and is often automatically added to the bill as a "propina sugerida." You can choose whether or not to pay it, but it's customary to do so for good service.
- Water: The tap water in Santiago is generally considered safe to drink, but it has a very high mineral content. This can upset sensitive stomachs, so many travelers and locals prefer to stick to bottled water.
- SIM/eSIM: An eSIM service like Airalo is the easiest way to get connected as soon as you land.
FAQs
The food scene was a bit of a letdown for me, but there are some local staples worth trying:
- Pastel de Choclo: A savory-sweet corn and meat casserole. It's a comforting, traditional dish.
- Lomo Saltado: Technically Peruvian, but you'll find it everywhere and it's often very good.
- Pisco Sour: The classic cocktail of the region. A must-try.
- Mote con Huesillos: A very sweet, non-alcoholic drink made with husked wheat and dried peaches. You'll see it sold at street stalls.
Yes, it can be. The city is in a geographical bowl that traps smog, especially in winter. On many days, the Andes mountains are just faint outlines in the haze. If you're sensitive to air quality, you'll notice it.
Literally "coffee with legs." They are a unique Chilean cultural phenomenon—coffee shops where waitresses serve coffee in revealing outfits. Think Hooters, but for your morning espresso. It makes finding a regular cafe on Google Maps a bit of an adventure.
It's a genuine concern. Locals will advise you to be cautious, and areas that are busy during the day become deserted and feel unsafe after dark. It’s not a city for casual nighttime strolls. Take Ubers and stick to safer neighborhoods like Las Condes or Providencia if you're out late.
Compared to other South American capitals like Buenos Aires or La Paz, yes. I found Santiago to be noticeably more expensive for food, accommodation, and activities.
It is highly recommended. English isn't widely spoken, even in some service encounters. You'll find more English speakers in upscale hotels and tourist areas in Las Condes, but for day-to-day interactions, you'll need to rely on basic Spanish or a translation app.
Honestly, I'd say use it as a gateway. Fly in and out of Santiago, spend a day or two seeing the highlights mentioned above, and then focus your time on the incredible diversity the rest of Chile has to offer—like Patagonia, the Atacama Desert, or the coast.
I'd say 3 days maximum if you are only there to see the city. The area you'll likely explore will be the Las Condes area and maybe a few other market areas or museums located more centrally but you'll likely run out of things to do past day 3.
How-To Guides
- Get a Card: Go to the ticket counter (boletería) in any metro station and ask for a "tarjeta Bip!". The card itself has a small cost, and you'll need to add an initial amount of credit.
- Load Credit: You can add more money at any ticket counter (cash only) or at the automated machines available in stations.
- Tap In: Simply tap your card on the reader at the turnstile to enter the metro or on the reader when you board a bus. One card can be used for your whole group; just tap it once for each person.
- Avoid Walking: Do not wander around after dark, especially in areas like the Centro Histórico, Bellavista, or near the bus station. These areas empty out and can be dangerous.
- Use Rideshare/Taxis: Always take an Uber or a pre-booked taxi directly to your destination. Don't hail cabs off the street.
- Stay in Safe Neighborhoods: If you do go out, stick to the safer, more upscale areas like Las Condes and parts of Providencia, where there's more light and activity.
- Be Aware of Your Drink: Drink spiking has been reported in bars and clubs, so never leave your drink unattended.
- Manage Expectations: Don't expect the world-class culinary diversity of some other capital cities.
- Seek Out Good Neighborhoods: Your best bet for finding quality restaurants is in areas like Lastarria, Barrio Italia, and Las Condes.
- Try the Classics: Look for Chilean staples like Pastel de Choclo on menus. Don't be afraid to eat at the many Peruvian restaurants—they are often a reliable choice.
- Embrace the Pisco Sour: When in doubt, have a Pisco Sour. It rarely disappoints.
Affiliate Recommendations
- eSIM: Airalo Santiago - The e-SIM I used in Santiago. No issues with it at all, it just worked.
- Travel Insurance: SafetyWing - Recommended travel medical insurance for nomads. Not a legal requirement for Chile, but for peace of mind it's nice to have.
- Accommodation: Expedia Santiago - Find hotels or apartments. I strongly recommend staying in the Las Condes neighborhood for a safer and more pleasant trip.