
PERU
Cusco City Guide
My guide to Cusco, a city that will literally take your breath away. All the essential info, my top recommendations, and the advice I wish I had before I went.
Quick Facts
- The Vibe: Ancient Incan capital meets bustling tourist hub. It's a magical blend of indigenous culture, colonial architecture, and adventure-seekers from all over the world.
- Elevation: A dizzying 3,400 meters (11,152 feet). Don't underestimate the altitude—it's a major factor in your trip.
- Population: Around 430,000 people.
- Language: Spanish and Quechua are the official languages. You'll hear both, but Spanish will get you by. English is common in tourist centers but less so elsewhere.
- Currency: Peruvian Sol (PEN). While some touristy places might take USD, you'll want cash in Sol for markets, taxis, and smaller shops.
- Famous For: Being the gateway to Machu Picchu, its incredible Incan ruins, vibrant markets, and being the historical heart of the Inca Empire.
Top Highlights
- Machu Picchu: This is the big one, and it lives up to the hype. The ruins themselves are incredible, but the setting, surrounded by dramatic green peaks, is what makes it unforgettable. Key Tip: Book your ticket months in advance as they sell out. If you want to do the route I did be sure to select the option which includes Waynapicchu for that iconic high-up view. The hike is a bit tough but 100% worth it for the birds-eye views.
- The Sacred Valley: This whole area is packed with mind-blowing ruins and landscapes. I did an ATV tour here and it was a blast. The key stops are Moray, the crazy circular agricultural terraces, and the Salineras de Maras (salt mines), which are visually stunning. There are tons of ways to see it, from bus tours to adventure sports.
- Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca): It looks just like the pictures, but the hike to get there is brutal. You're trekking at over 5,000 meters (17,000 ft), and you will feel every single step. It's a super long day trip from Cusco, but seeing those colors in person is a once-in-a-lifetime thing.
- Sacsayhuamán: Pronounced like "sexy woman," or at least that's what everyone called it, this massive Incan fortress sits on a hill overlooking Cusco. The sheer size of the stones they used is mind-boggling. It's part of the Boleto Turístico (more on that below) and easily reachable from the city.
- Qoricancha (The Sun Temple): A perfect example of Cusco's layered history. It was once the richest temple in the Inca Empire, covered in gold, before the Spanish came, looted it, and built a church right on top of the original Incan stone walls.
- San Pedro Market: A chaotic, vibrant, and totally authentic local market. You can find everything here from fresh juices and cheap, delicious lunches to souvenir textiles and whole alpaca heads. It's a feast for the senses.
- Plaza de Armas: The main square and the heart of the city. It's surrounded by beautiful cathedrals and colonial arcades. It’s a great place to people-watch, but be prepared to politely say "no, gracias" a lot to people selling tours and massages.
When to Visit
- ☀️Dry Season
This is peak season for a reason. You'll get clear blue skies, sunny days, and the best conditions for hiking. Nights get cold, though, and you'll be sharing the views with plenty of other travelers.
🌤️Shoulder SeasonThe sweet spot. The weather is still great, the mountains are lush and green from the recent rains, and the crowds are smaller than in the June-August peak.
🌧️Wet SeasonFewer crowds and lower prices, but be prepared for frequent rain. It can be unpredictable and might cause travel delays or muddy trails. The landscape is incredibly green, though.
Getting Around
Navigating Cusco is an adventure in itself, with its narrow, hilly, cobblestone streets.
Walking: The best way to explore the historic center. Just be prepared for the hills and the altitude—you'll get winded easily your first few days.
Taxis: They are everywhere and cheap, but they don't use meters. You must agree on a price before you get in. A typical ride within the historic center should be around 5-8 PEN. Use licensed taxis, especially at night.
Rideshare Apps: Uber is available but not as common or reliable as in other cities. I used it a few times and it was fine, though late at night I had some difficulty finding a ride so I had to use a taxi instead.
Colectivos: These are shared vans that run on set routes. They're a super cheap way to get around or travel to nearby towns in the Sacred Valley, but they can be crowded.
Tour Buses: For day trips to places like the Sacred Valley or Rainbow Mountain, you'll be on a tour bus or van. This is the most practical way to reach these sites.
Safety
Cusco is generally considered safe for travelers, especially in the tourist-heavy areas like the Historic Center and San Blas. The biggest concerns here aren't violent crime, but rather altitude sickness and opportunistic theft.
- Altitude Sickness is Real: This is your #1 health and safety concern. Symptoms include headaches, nausea, fatigue, and shortness of breath. Take it very, very easy your first couple of days. Drink tons of water, avoid heavy meals and alcohol, and try the local remedy: coca tea or leaves. If you fly directly from a low-altitude place like Lima, your body will need time to adjust.
- Petty Theft: Pickpocketing can happen in crowded areas like the San Pedro Market or Plaza de Armas. Keep your valuables secure and don't flash expensive items. The good news is that violent crime against tourists is low.
- Traffic is Chaotic: This is not an exaggeration. Drivers can be aggressive, lanes are a suggestion, and sidewalks can be narrow or disappear entirely. As my blog post mentions, I was literally hit by a bus. Be extremely careful when crossing streets and walking.
- Tour Safety: Book your adventure tours (ATVs, hiking, etc.) with reputable companies. Check reviews and don't just go for the cheapest option you're offered on the street.
- Solo Female Travelers: Cusco is a popular destination for solo travelers and is generally considered safe. Standard precautions apply: avoid walking alone in deserted areas late at night and trust your gut. Stick to the main tourist areas after dark.
Areas to Stay
Centro Histórico / Plaza de Armas: The heart of the action. It's convenient, bustling, and you'll have countless restaurants and shops at your doorstep. Can be noisy.
San Blas: Known as the artisan's quarter, this neighborhood is charming, bohemian, and full of beautiful boutique hotels and cafes. It's quieter than the plaza but located on a steep hill, so be ready to climb.
Lucrepata: A more residential and quiet area right next to San Blas. A good option if you want to be close to the center but away from the tourist noise.
Packing List
- Layers, Layers, Layers: The weather changes constantly. You'll need t-shirts, a fleece, and a waterproof/windproof jacket, often all in the same day.
- Good Hiking Shoes: Non-negotiable. You'll be walking on uneven cobblestones and hiking trails.
- Sun Protection: The sun at high altitude is incredibly strong. Bring a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and high-SPF sunscreen.
- Reusable Water Bottle: Stay hydrated to combat the altitude.
- Altitude Sickness Medication: Talk to your doctor before you go about prescription options like Diamox (Acetazolamide).
- Daypack: For carrying water, snacks, layers, and sunscreen on your many excursions.
Practical Tips
- Acclimatize Smartly: Seriously, don't plan a strenuous hike on your first day. A common strategy is to head directly from Cusco airport to the lower-altitude Sacred Valley (like Pisac or Ollantaytambo) for a couple of nights before returning to explore Cusco.
- The Tourist Ticket (Boleto Turístico): This is essential. It's a single pass that gets you into 16 of the most important ruins and museums in and around Cusco, including Sacsayhuamán, Pisac, Ollantaytambo, and Moray. You can buy a full 10-day ticket or partial tickets for specific circuits. You cannot buy individual tickets for most of these sites, so you need the Boleto.
- Book Machu Picchu Way in Advance: Tickets sell out, especially for peak season and for the popular Waynapicchu or Huchuypicchu mountain hikes. Book online from the official government site or a trusted agency at least 2-3 months beforehand to be safe.
- Money: The currency is the Peruvian Sol (PEN). Carry small bills and coins for markets and taxis. ATMs are available in the city center, but can be harder to find in rural areas.
- Water: Do not drink the tap water. Stick to bottled or filtered water.
- SIM/eSIM: An eSIM like Airalo works well in the city, but don't expect a signal once you head out on remote hikes.
FAQs
The food in Peru is incredible! Don't leave without trying:
- Lomo Saltado: A delicious beef stir-fry with onions, tomatoes, and french fries. A must-try.
- Ceviche: While more of a coastal dish, you can find excellent trout ceviche in Cusco.
- Cuy (Guinea Pig): Yes, it's a delicacy. If you're adventurous, give it a try. The flavor is rich, similar to rabbit.
- Alpaca: Often served as a steak or in stews. It can be lean and delicious when cooked well.
- Chicha Morada: A refreshing, sweet drink made from purple corn.
- Pisco Sour: Peru's national cocktail. It's potent, especially at altitude!
It affects everyone differently, regardless of age or fitness level. For most people, it feels like a bad hangover for a day or two: headache, fatigue, mild nausea. For a few, it can be more severe. The key is to not push yourself. Acclimatize properly, and you'll likely be fine.
It's a traditional remedy for altitude sickness and is a normal part of life in the Andes. Locals chew them to combat fatigue and hunger. It acts as a mild stimulant, like a cup of coffee. You can buy a bag for a few soles at any market. Don't swallow the leaves; just chew them until they form a ball in your cheek and let the juices work their magic.
In the tourist center, hotels, and restaurants, you'll find plenty of English speakers. However, for taxis, markets, and more local interactions, knowing basic Spanish phrases will go a long way and is greatly appreciated. Google Translate is your friend.
The Boleto Turístico is a tourist ticket that provides access to 16 sites in and around Cusco and the Sacred Valley. For most of the major ruins (like Sacsayhuamán, Pisac, Ollantaytambo), you cannot buy an individual ticket at the entrance; you must have the Boleto. So yes, if you plan to see the ruins, you need it.
Use your judgment. Look for stalls that are busy with locals, where the food is being cooked fresh in front of you. The fried alpaca I had at Rainbow Mountain from a small stand was delicious. If a place looks unclean or the food looks like it's been sitting out for hours, it's best to skip it.
If you're visiting in the high season (June-August) and want to hike one of the mountains (Waynapicchu/Huchuypicchu), book 3-4 months in advance. No joke. For general entry in the shoulder or low season, 1-2 months should be okay, but it's always better to book as soon as you know your dates.
How-To Guides
- Take It Easy: Your first 24-48 hours are crucial. Don't plan any strenuous activity. Walk slowly. Rest.
- Hydrate: Drink lots and lots of water—more than you usually would.
- Avoid Alcohol: A Pisco Sour on your first night is a recipe for a brutal headache. Wait until you're adjusted.
- Eat Light: Stick to smaller, carb-heavy meals for the first few days. Avoid heavy, fatty foods.
- Go Low to Go High: If your itinerary allows, spend your first nights in the lower-altitude Sacred Valley (around 2,800m) before moving up to Cusco (3,400m).
- Try Coca: Sip on coca tea (mate de coca), which is offered for free in most hotels, or chew the leaves like a local. It's a mild stimulant that helps alleviate symptoms.
- Go to the Official Site: The official seller is now tuboleto.cultura.pe. Be wary of look-alike sites.
- Select Your Route: As of recent changes, you must choose a specific circuit and time slot. The most comprehensive is Circuit 2. If you want to hike a mountain, you must select the ticket that includes Waynapicchu or Huchuypicchu mountain.
- Enter Your Details: You will need your full name, date of birth, and passport number, exactly as it appears on your passport. Double-check everything.
- Pay and Print: Pay with a credit card. You will receive the tickets via email. Print them out or have a digital copy ready, along with the passport you used to book.
- Decide Which Ticket You Need:
- Full Ticket (Boleto General): Costs 130 PEN, is valid for 10 days, and includes all 16 sites. This is the best value if you plan to visit sites in both Cusco and the Sacred Valley.
- Partial Tickets (Boletos Parciales): Cost 70 PEN and are valid for 1-2 days for specific circuits (e.g., just the four ruins near Cusco, or just the main sites in the Sacred Valley).
- Where to Buy: You can buy the ticket at the main office on Av. El Sol 103 or at the entrance of most of the major archaeological sites themselves (like Sacsayhuamán or Pisac). You cannot buy it online. Cash (Peruvian Sol) is preferred.
- How to Use: Simply present your ticket at the entrance of each site. They will punch a hole in it for that location. Keep it safe, as you'll need it for multiple days.
- Get a Small Handful: Take about 15-20 dried leaves.
- Remove the Stems: You can quickly pull the hard stems off before putting them in your mouth.
- Chew Gently: Don't shred them like chewing tobacco. Gently chew them just enough to break them down and moisten them into a quid (a small ball).
- Tuck it in Your Cheek: Park the quid in your cheek and let it sit. Don't swallow the leaves.
- Add a Catalyst (Optional): Sometimes a small, black, sweet substance called llipta is chewed with the leaves to help activate the alkaloids.
- Sip and Enjoy: The goal is to slowly extract the juices. It will make your cheek and tongue a bit numb. The effects are a mild energy boost and relief from altitude symptoms.
Affiliate Recommendations
- eSIM: Airalo Peru - The e-SIM I used in Peru. It worked great for me for most places around Cusco. Of course, in the places outside the city there aren't many cell towers to keep you connected.
- Travel Insurance: SafetyWing - Recommended travel medical insurance for nomads. Not a legal requirement for Peru, but for peace of mind it's nice to have, especially for adventurous hikes or activities.
- Accommodation: Expedia Accommodations Cusco - Find hotels, hostels, or whatever you prefer. I was in a hostel but there are plenty of nicer options if you have the budget for it.