ARGENTINA
Buenos Aires City Guide
My guide to help you travel to Buenos Aires. The basic info, some of my recommendations, and things I wish I knew before going. Good news is I loved this city so I think you might too!
Quick Facts
- The Vibe: Think Paris meets Latin America. Grand buildings, wide avenues, and a super cosmopolitan feel.
- Population: Around 3 million in the city itself, but the whole metro area is a bustling 15 million.
- Language: Spanish, but it's a unique, sing-songy version called Castellano Rioplatense. Don't be surprised when "y" and "ll" sound like "sh." You'll also hear a ton of local slang called lunfardo—words like "boludo" and "quilombo" are everywhere.
- Currency: Argentine Peso (ARS). Heads up: the economy is chaotic. Cash is king, and you'll want to understand the "blue dollar" rate to get the most for your money. More on that below!
- Famous For: Tango, ridiculously good steak (asado), football, and being a city that truly never sleeps.
Top Highlights
- Palermo: This is a huge, trendy neighborhood and the best all-rounder for your stay. It's split into areas like Soho and Hollywood, packed with amazing cafes, boutiques, street art, and some of the best restaurants and bars. A great place to just get lost and wander.
- San Telmo Market: If you're here on a Sunday, the Feria de San Telmo is a must. It's a huge street market with antiques, leather goods, street performers, and an incredible, bustling atmosphere. The neighborhood's cobblestone streets and European-style buildings are beautiful to explore.
- Catch a Football Match: The energy at a local soccer game is electric. I went to a Boca Juniors vs. Racing Club match and it was wild—the crowd sings passionate, full-blown songs from the first whistle to the last. It's a core part of the culture and an experience you won't forget.
- La Boca & Caminito: This is the super colorful neighborhood you've seen in photos. Honestly, it feels a bit gimmicky and commercialized, but it's still worth seeing once. Go during the day, wander down the Caminito street museum, and soak in the vibrant art. Just be aware and stick to the main tourist strip, as the surrounding area gets sketchy quickly.
- Recoleta Cemetery: It sounds weird, but it's like a city of the dead with massive, ornate mausoleums. It’s where Eva Perón is buried. Honest take: this might be one to forget if you don't know anything about Evita or Argentine history. I didn't, so the "big highlight" was just another gravesite for me. The contrast between the lavish tombs and those in ruin is striking, though.
- El Ateneo Grand Splendid: A breathtakingly beautiful bookstore inside a former grand theatre. Seriously, even if you don't buy anything, just go inside and look up.
- Plaza de Mayo & Casa Rosada: This is the historic and political heart of the city. You'll see the famous "Pink House" (the presidential palace) where Evita gave her speeches from the balcony.
When to Visit
- 🌸Spring
This is prime time. The weather is gorgeous, and the city is covered in beautiful purple jacaranda blossoms. It's perfect for walking around without melting.
☀️SummerIt gets hot and humid. Really hot. This is also when the city's nightlife is at its peak, but the heat can bring out some unpleasant street smells and mosquitoes.
🍂FallAlso amazing. The summer heat has died down, and the vibe is crisp and pleasant. It's ideal for sightseeing and enjoying the city's cafe culture.
❄️WinterIt's mild and can be a bit damp, but it's the season for tango festivals and a cozier vibe in the city's cafes.
Getting Around
The city is huge but surprisingly easy to navigate.
SUBE Card is Essential: You'll need a SUBE card to use the subway (Subte) and buses. You can't pay with cash on board. Grab one at a subway station or a kiosk (kiosco) and load it up.
The Subte (Subway): It's efficient and connects most of the main tourist areas. The D line (green) is particularly useful, hitting spots from downtown through Recoleta and Palermo.
Rideshare Apps: Uber and Cabify work well and are generally safe and affordable. Local tip: Ridesharing is kinda-sorta illegal, so your driver might ask you to sit in the front seat to look like a friend. Don't be alarmed, it's normal.
Walking: Buenos Aires is an amazing city to walk through, but be warned: people here are bad at walking. They'll stop in the middle of the sidewalk or walk in huge groups. It's a weirdly specific annoyance. Also, watch where you step—dog poop is a very common obstacle.
Safety
Buenos Aires is generally a safe city for travelers, especially in the main neighborhoods and tourist areas. Its safety level is similar to cities like Madrid or Rome—urban, lively, and mostly comfortable to explore, but with the usual big-city caveats. Use your street smarts, and you'll likely find it feels welcoming and easy to navigate. If you were to have any safety related issues it will most likely be theft. I recommend to not fight in that case and simply hand over the items and replace the items later. Insurance can help replace stolen goods and its more important to stay alive than to hold on to replaceable material possessions.
- General Awareness: Like any major city, be smart. Watch for pickpockets in crowded areas, don't flash expensive electronics or jewelry, and use common sense, especially at night.
- Neighborhoods to Be Cautious In: Some areas require extra caution, particularly after dark. These include the streets around Retiro train station (near the large informal settlement, Barrio 31), parts of San Telmo away from the main plazas, and the neighborhood of Constitución. In La Boca, stick to the main Caminito tourist strip.
- Common Scams: You might be approached by people with a sob story or a "great offer." The best response is to be firm, say "no hablo español," and walk away without engaging.
- Solo Female Travelers: The city is generally considered safe for solo female travelers. My girlfriend lived there solo for 6 months with no issues. Standard precautions apply: be aware of your surroundings, avoid deserted areas late at night, and trust your gut. Palermo and Recoleta are excellent, safe choices for accommodation.
Areas to Stay
A more detailed guide for the best neighborhoods can be found here. There you will also find key points of interest in each neighborhood, walking distances, and more!
Palermo: The best all-rounder. It's safe, trendy, and packed with incredible restaurants, cafes, and bars. Perfect if you want everything at your doorstep.
Recoleta: Upscale and elegant. It's central, beautiful, and feels a bit like Paris. A great choice if you want something quieter but still very accessible.
San Telmo: The historic, bohemian heart of the city. It's full of character but can be a bit dicey after dark in certain spots, so just be mindful.
Sample Itinerary
- Day 1: History & Grandeur. Start at Plaza de Mayo to see the Casa Rosada. Wander down Avenida de Mayo and stop at Café Tortoni. In the afternoon, explore Recoleta and its incredible Cemetery.
- Day 2: Art & Tango. Head to the colorful La Boca to see Caminito in the morning. In the afternoon, dive into the historic streets of San Telmo. If it's a Sunday, lose yourself in the market. In the evening, catch a tango show.
- Day 3: Trendy Vibes & Green Spaces. Spend the day exploring Palermo. Wander through the boutiques of Palermo Soho, then grab a coffee and medialunas at a spot like Portus Speciality Coffee. Relax in the beautiful Rosedal (Rose Garden). For dinner, you can't go wrong in Palermo—try the carbonara pizza at ORNO Cantina or a world-class steak at Huacho.
Packing List
- Comfortable Walking Shoes: Non-negotiable. You'll be walking a ton on uneven sidewalks.
- Layers: The weather can change throughout the day. A light jacket or sweater is always a good idea.
- Power Adapter: Argentina uses Type I plugs (the ones with three flat prongs, like in Australia).
- A Nice Outfit: Porteños (the locals) dress well. Pack one smarter outfit for a nice dinner or a tango show.
- Bring the Clothes You Need: Seriously, don't plan on buying clothes here. Import taxes make them ridiculously expensive.
Practical Tips
- The Money Situation: This is complicated but crucial. Cash is king. Don't use ATMs or the official exchange rate. To get a much better rate (the "blue dollar" rate), the best options are to send money to yourself via Western Union and pick it up in cash, or use an unofficial (but common) exchange house called a "cueva." Have plenty of cash, as many places don't take cards. Be prepared for prices on menus to be covered with stickers—inflation causes frequent changes.
- Tipping: A 10% tip in restaurants is standard and appreciated. You must leave it in cash, as there's no option to add it to a card payment. For taxis, just rounding up the fare is fine.
- Water: The tap water in Buenos Aires is safe to drink.
- SIM/eSIM: You can get a local SIM, but an eSIM service like Airalo is super easy. I found 5GB was plenty for a month, since so many cafes have free Wi-Fi.
FAQs
The food scene is great! You can't leave without trying:
- Asado: A proper Argentine barbecue. It's more than a meal, it's a cultural experience.
- Steak: It's world-famous for a reason. I had a phenomenal one at Huacho.
- Empanadas: Delicious stuffed pastries you'll find everywhere. The ones from Patagonia Brewery were great.
- Milanesa: A simple but delicious breaded cutlet. Rebellion does a great one.
- Choripán: A fantastic sausage sandwich, often sold at street stalls.
- Dulce de Leche: A sweet, caramel-like spread that's in everything, especially ice cream (helado).
- Medialunas: Small, sweet croissants that are a breakfast staple.
- Alfajores: Delicious sandwich cookies with a sweet filling.
Be prepared for apartments to feel a bit dated. Many have older fixtures and appliances, and the infrastructure often shows its age—even if the photos look modern. They can be charming, but set your expectations accordingly.
Yes, Buenos Aires is incredibly dog-friendly! You'll see professional dog walkers with 10–20 dogs at once, and parks full of playful pups. The downside: dog poop is everywhere. Watch your step on the sidewalks.
That's just the culture. Dinner often starts at 9 or 10 PM, bars get busy after midnight, and clubs open at 2 AM. If you're not a night owl, it can be an adjustment—but it's the best way to experience the city's legendary nightlife.
You don't have to be! Wine here is excellent and affordable, thanks to local production (mostly in Mendoza). Even the house wine at restaurants is usually great. Try a Malbec or Rosé—you'll almost always be impressed for the price.
Occasionally, you'll be approached by people with a sob story or a "great offer." Just be firm, say "no hablo español," and walk away. Don't engage, and you'll be fine.
For many things, yes. For clothes or electronics, absolutely not—import taxes make them shockingly expensive. Pack what you need and don't plan on buying new outfits or iPhones unless you're ready to pay a premium.
The parks are fantastic and a huge part of local life. Head to a big one like Parque Tres de Febrero in Palermo, find a spot on the grass, and people-watch. You'll see locals sipping mate, playing with dogs, and relaxing.
They sometimes have that reputation, but I found people to be warm, friendly, and engaging. You'll get greeted in shops and elevators, and it's easy to make friends. Porteños are passionate and eager to share their culture.
It's great for remote work. Reliable Wi-Fi is common in cafes, especially in Palermo. There are plenty of spots to open your laptop—my favorite was Merope for Colombian breakfast and coffee.
It helps—a lot. Outside the main tourist areas, English isn't widely spoken. It's a "trial by fire" for improving your Spanish, and can be exhausting but effective. People appreciate when you try, and using Google Translate is totally fine when you get stuck.
For me, it's a skip. The main river area is polluted and smelly, and while boat tours take you to cleaner waters, there isn't much to see or do. I was disappointed with the experience.
It's more than a drink; it's a social ritual. It's an herbal tea sipped from a gourd (mate) with a metal straw (bombilla). Locals carry thermoses of hot water everywhere. Key etiquette: Don't move the bombilla, and don't ask for sugar. You can't order it in a cafe; you have to prepare it yourself.
I had an amazing experience using an app called Timeleft for group dinners. It was a great way to meet people and make friends, even leading to meeting my girlfriend!
Yes, it's generally considered safe. My girlfriend lived there solo for 6 months with 0 problems. Be aware of your surroundings, avoid deserted areas late at night, and trust your gut. Palermo and Recoleta are great choices for accommodation.
How-To Guides
Jugoso: Rare (literally "juicy"). A Punto: Medium-rare to medium. The standard. Pasado de Punto: Medium-well. Bien Cocido: Well-done.
For most games you'll need to buy tickets from a local who has access. I did this easily via GetYourGuide. The atmosphere is incredible, but taken very seriously. For safety reasons, you often won't be allowed into the stadium wearing the opposing team's colors. Stick to neutral colors or your team's kit to be safe. Prices can be quite high (I paid $250 UDS) so keep that in mind.
The SUBE card is your key to public transport in Buenos Aires—covering the subway (Subte), city buses (colectivos), and even some trains.
Where to Get It: Look for kiosks (kioscos) or subway stations displaying a blue "SUBE" sign. Not every kiosk sells them, so you may need to try a couple.
How to Load Credit: Once you have your card, add credit (cargar saldo) at the same kiosks, subway stations, or even some convenience stores. Tell the cashier how much you want to load and hand them your card.
How to Use It: On the subway: Tap your card on the blue reader at the turnstile to enter. On buses: Tell the driver your destination (or just say "uno" for a standard fare), then tap your card on the reader by the door.
Tips:
- One card can be used by multiple people—just tap once per person.
- Keep some extra credit on your card; not all stations or kiosks can reload it.
- You can check your balance at any reader or ask at a kiosk.
Without a SUBE card, you can't use public transport—cash is not accepted on board.
Getting the best exchange rate is crucial in Buenos Aires. Forget ATMs and the official rate—your goal is to get the "blue dollar" rate.
Best Method: Western Union
- Set Up a Transfer: Before you go, use the Western Union app or website to send money from your bank account to yourself for cash pickup in Buenos Aires.
- Find a Pickup Location: Use the app to find a branch with good reviews and reliable cash availability.
- Pick Up Your Cash: Bring your passport and pickup info. You'll get a big stack of pesos at a much better rate than the official one.
Alternative: "Cueva" (Unofficial Exchange House)
- These are informal currency exchanges, often advertised as "Cambio." Ask your hotel or a trusted local for a safe recommendation. Bring clean, high-denomination US dollars to exchange for pesos.
Yerba mate is a social ritual. If you’re invited to share, here’s how to do it right:
- Accept Graciously: The person who prepares the mate (the cebador) drinks the first serving.
- Receive and Sip: When handed the gourd, drink all the mate until you hear a slurp. Don’t linger, but don’t rush.
- Don’t Touch the Straw: Never move or stir the bombilla (metal straw)—it’s a big faux pas.
- Hand It Back: Return the gourd to the cebador. Only say "gracias" if you’re finished and don’t want more; otherwise, stay silent and you’ll get another round.
Going out here is a marathon, not a sprint:
- Take a Nap: A late afternoon or early evening nap is essential.
- Eat Dinner Late: Don’t book dinner before 9 PM—9:30 or 10 PM is normal.
- Pre-Game Around Midnight: After dinner, head to a bar. Things get lively after midnight.
- Arrive at the Club at 2 AM (or Later): Clubs ("boliches") don’t get going until at least 2 AM and stay packed until sunrise. Pace yourself!
Merienda is the beloved late-afternoon snack time, bridging lunch and late dinner:
- Find a Cafe: Around 5 PM, pick any confitería or cafe.
- Order the Classic Combo: Café con leche (coffee with milk) and medialunas (small, sweet croissants) are the go-to.
- Relax and Linger: This is not a grab-and-go moment. Sit, read, chat, and enjoy the pause—it’s a core part of local culture.
Buenos Aires is generally safe, but you may encounter people asking for money or trying a scam:
- Project Confidence: Walk with purpose and stay aware.
- Create a Language Barrier: A firm "No hablo español" usually ends the interaction.
- Do Not Engage: Don’t stop or apologize—just keep walking.
- Trust Your Gut: If something feels off, change direction or duck into a shop or cafe.
Affiliate Recommendations
- eSIM: Airalo Buenos Aires - The e-SIM I used in Argentina. It worked great for me. I found 5 Gb was enough for a month given how many places you can get free wifi.
- Travel Insurance: SafetyWing - Recommended travel medical insurance for nomads. Not a legal requirement for Argentina, but for peace of mind it's nice to have.
- Accommodation: Expedia Buenos Aires - Find hotels, serviced apartments, hostels, or whatever you prefer. I like using this to see the square meters/feet of the place. Airbnb rarely ever has that info and its crucial.