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Bogotá City Guide

Published: November 21, 2024 | Updated: August 6, 2025

My guide to help you travel to Bogotá. The basic info, some of my recommendations, and things I wish I knew before going. It's a city of eternal sweater weather with its own unique charm.

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Quick Facts

  • The Vibe: A massive, high-altitude Andean capital with a mix of historic charm in La Candelaria and modern, upscale life in the north. Think perpetual autumn, great coffee, and a bustling, cosmopolitan energy.
  • Population: The metro area is huge, with around 11.8 million people.
  • Language: Spanish. English isn't widely spoken outside of major tourist spots, so having a translator app handy is a good idea.
  • Currency: Colombian Peso (COP). Cards and tap-to-pay are common in modern areas, but always have cash for smaller shops and street food.
  • Famous For: The Gold Museum, Botero's "thicc" art, world-class coffee, and Tejo—a ridiculously fun game involving gunpowder.

Top Highlights

  1. La Candelaria (Historic Center): This is the heart of historic Bogotá. Wander the colorful, cobblestone streets, check out the incredible street art, and soak in the colonial architecture. It's home to the city's main museums and Plaza de Bolívar. Just be extra cautious here at night.
  2. Museo Botero: This was a real highlight. It's a free museum dedicated to Fernando Botero, Colombia's most famous artist. His signature style of depicting people and animals in exaggerated, "thicc" proportions is both unique and humorous. It’s way more entertaining than you’d expect a museum to be.
  3. Play Tejo: You haven't really been to Colombia until you've thrown a heavy metal disc (a tejo) at a clay pit lined with gunpowder-filled envelopes (mechas). The goal is to create a small explosion. It's loud, messy, and an absolute blast, especially with a few beers.
  4. Museo del Oro (Gold Museum): Home to an enormous collection of pre-Columbian gold artifacts. Honest take: I found it just okay. It's affordable and impressive if you're really into history, but don't feel guilty if you decide to skip it.
  5. Usaquén Market: This is a popular Sunday market. My honest opinion? It was underwhelming. It felt mostly like cheap crafts and souvenirs, not a vibrant local market. Maybe worth a visit if you're in the area, but I wouldn't go out of your way for it.
  6. Explore the Northern Neighborhoods: Areas like Chicó, El Retiro (Zona T), and Chapinero are the modern heart of the city. Here you'll find the best restaurants, upscale shopping malls, and a lively, safe atmosphere for walking around.

When to Visit

  • ☀️
    Dry Season

    This is your best bet. You'll get the most pleasant and driest weather, with chilly but often sunny days. It's the peak tourist season, but the good weather makes it worth it.

  • ⛅
    Shoulder Season

    Another relatively dry period. The weather is still cool and pleasant, and you'll find fewer crowds than in the peak winter months, making it a great time to explore.

  • 🌧️
    Wet Season

    Expect frequent rain and overcast skies. While the city is still visitable, the constant drizzle can make getting around and sightseeing less enjoyable.

Getting Around

Bogotá is huge and very spread out, so getting around requires some planning.

Rideshare Apps are Your Friend: Uber and Cabify are essential. Walking between neighborhoods isn't really feasible, and you'll rely on apps to get from place to place. Local tip: We had trouble getting larger Ubers for our luggage and had a driver refuse a long trip from the north to La Candelaria. Be prepared for potential cancellations and have a backup plan.

Walking (Within Neighborhoods): Sticking to one area like Chapinero or La Candelaria is very walkable. But be warned: the sidewalks are a hazard. They're a chaotic patchwork of different materials, pipes, and obstacles. Keep your eyes on the ground to avoid a twisted ankle.

TransMilenio: This is Bogotá's bus rapid transit system. While it's extensive, it's known for being extremely crowded and a hotspot for pickpockets. As a tourist, it might be more stress than it's worth; rideshare apps are a safer and more comfortable bet.

Safety

Bogotá's safety reputation precedes it, but the reality is more nuanced. Like any massive city, it has safe areas and sketchy ones. The northern neighborhoods (Chapinero, Chicó, Usaquén) are generally considered safe and modern. The main tourist area, La Candelaria, is fine during the day but requires caution at night, as muggings can occur. The common Colombian saying, "no dar papaya" (don't give papaya), perfectly sums up the safety strategy: don't make yourself an easy target. Avoid flashing expensive electronics or jewelry, and be aware of your surroundings. If you are confronted, it's best to hand over your belongings without a fight.

  • General Awareness: Pickpocketing is common, especially in crowded areas and on public transport. Keep your phone out of sight on the street and hold your bag close.
  • Neighborhoods to Be Cautious In: Be extra careful in La Candelaria after dark. The south of Bogotá is generally considered less safe for tourists. Some areas mentioned by locals to avoid or be wary of include parts of downtown and areas that feel deserted.
  • Common Scams: Be wary of fake police asking to inspect your money, distraction thefts (like the "bird poop" scam), and being overcharged. Using reputable apps for taxis and being firm with street vendors can help you avoid most issues.
  • Solo Female Travelers: Bogotá is considered a viable destination for solo female travelers, especially if you stick to the safer northern neighborhoods. Standard precautions apply: avoid walking alone late at night, be cautious with drinks, and trust your gut.

Areas to Stay

A more detailed guide for the best neighborhoods can be found here. There you will also find key points of interest in each neighborhood, walking distances, and more!

Chapinero: A great all-rounder. It's trendy, safe, and home to Zona G, the city's top foodie district. It offers a more local feel while still being upscale and central.

Chicó / El Retiro (Zona T / Zona Rosa): Best for nightlife, luxury, and safety. This area is modern, clean, and packed with high-end restaurants, bars, and shops. It's one of the safest parts of the city.

Usaquén: Has a charming, small-town feel despite being in the city. It's upscale and quiet, making it a good choice for families, but a bit removed from the main action.

Packing List

  • Layers, Layers, Layers: The weather is consistently cool and can change quickly. Pack sweaters, long-sleeved shirts, and a good jacket.
  • A Rain Jacket: Sudden rain showers are common, so a waterproof jacket is non-negotiable.
  • Comfortable, Sturdy Shoes: You'll be walking on uneven, sometimes treacherous sidewalks. Prioritize comfort and ankle support.
  • No Shorts or Flip-Flops: Bogotá is not a tropical city. Wearing beachwear will instantly mark you as a tourist and isn't practical for the chilly weather.
  • A Nice Outfit: People in Bogotá tend to dress well. Pack something a bit smarter for a nice dinner or a night out in Zona T.

Practical Tips

  • The Money Situation: The currency is the Colombian Peso (COP). In modern areas like Chico and Zona T, credit/debit cards with tap-to-pay are widely accepted. However, you'll still need cash for smaller shops, street vendors, and markets. It's best to use ATMs inside banks or malls rather than on the street.
  • Tipping: A 10% service charge ("propina voluntaria") is often included in the bill at restaurants. You can choose whether to pay it. It's not customary to tip taxi drivers.
  • Water: The tap water in Bogotá is generally considered safe to drink, as the city has a modern treatment system. However, if you have a sensitive stomach, you might prefer to stick to bottled or filtered water.
  • SIM/eSIM: An eSIM service like Airalo is incredibly convenient. I used it in Colombia and it worked well in the city and for day trips.

FAQs

What foods do I absolutely have to try?

The food scene is solid! Don't leave without trying:

  • Ajiaco: Bogotá's signature dish, a hearty chicken and potato soup. It's a must-try for a taste of the region.
  • Bandeja Paisa: Considered Colombia's national dish, it's a massive platter of food including steak, pork belly (chicharrón), chorizo, beans, rice, a fried egg, and more. Come hungry!
  • Arepas: You'll find these corn cakes everywhere, served plain, with cheese, or stuffed with meat.
  • Chocolate Santafereño: A unique local tradition of hot chocolate served with a slice of cheese that you drop into the drink. It sounds weird, but it's a classic experience.
  • Colombian Coffee: It lives up to the hype. The coffee here is world-class.
What's the weather really like?

Think "eternal autumn." It’s generally cool, with average temperatures between 46-68°F (8-20°C). The high altitude means the sun can be strong during the day, but it gets chilly quickly, especially at night. Rain is common, so always be prepared.

What are the sidewalks like?

Honestly, they're a mess. Expect a patchwork of uneven tiles, random pipes, sudden drop-offs for driveways, and other obstacles. It’s not a city for relaxing strolls where you can look up and around; you need to watch where you're walking.

Do I really need to speak Spanish?

It's highly recommended. English is not widely spoken, and you'll need at least basic Spanish for everyday interactions like ordering food and dealing with drivers. A translator app is a lifesaver.

Is the Usaquén Sunday market worth it?

In my opinion, no. It was underwhelming and felt more like a market for cheap, mass-produced souvenirs than for unique local crafts. I'd say you can skip it unless you're already in the neighborhood with nothing else to do.

What is Tejo, and should I play it?

Yes, you absolutely should! It's a traditional Colombian sport where you throw a heavy steel puck at a clay target that's armed with small, gunpowder-filled envelopes. Hitting one causes a loud bang. It's a fantastic, social activity and incredibly fun with a group and a few beers.

I heard the malls are weird. Is that true?

I had a bizarre experience in the Santa Barbara Mall, which felt like a confusing, half-empty labyrinth. However, the malls in the El Retiro area (like Centro Andino) are modern, lively, and great for shopping and dining.

How-To Guides

How to Play Tejo (The Simple Version)
  1. Find a "Cancha de Tejo": Ask a local or your hotel for a recommendation. Many are casual spots where you pay for a crate of beer and get to play for free.
  2. Form Teams: It's usually played in teams. Grab a few friends.
  3. Throw the Tejo: Take the heavy metal puck (the tejo) and throw it underhand across the lane (about 19.5 meters for pros, shorter for beginners) toward the clay pit.
  4. Aim for the "Mechas": Your goal is to hit one of the small, triangular paper packets of gunpowder (mechas) that are placed on the metal ring (bocín) in the center of the clay.
  5. Score Points: You get points for a "mecha" (explosion, 3 points), a "bocín" (landing it in the ring, 6 points), or a "moñona" (both at once, 9 points). If no one explodes anything, the closest tejo gets 1 point.
  6. Drink Beer & Repeat: This is the most important rule.
How to Navigate Bogotá's Rideshare System
  1. Use Apps: Stick to Uber or Cabify. Hailing a taxi on the street is not recommended for safety reasons and you're more likely to be overcharged.
  2. Be Patient: Drivers may cancel rides, especially if the trip is long (e.g., from a northern neighborhood to La Candelaria or the airport). If you're having trouble, try booking a shorter trip to a more central area and then booking another ride from there.
  3. Confirm Your Ride: Always confirm the license plate and driver's name before getting in the car.
  4. Have a Plan B: If you're heading to the airport or have a time-sensitive appointment, give yourself extra time in case you have to wait for a driver to accept your trip.
How to Dress for the Bogotá Climate
  1. Embrace Layers: The golden rule of Bogotá. A typical outfit might be a t-shirt, a sweater, and a jacket. This lets you adapt as the temperature changes from a sunny afternoon to a chilly, rainy evening.
  2. Waterproof Outerwear: A light rain jacket or waterproof coat is essential. It doesn't rain all day, but sudden downpours are frequent.
  3. Pants, Not Shorts: Locals almost exclusively wear pants. Jeans or comfortable trousers are perfect. You'll feel out of place and cold in shorts.
  4. Closed-Toe Shoes: Given the uneven sidewalks and cool weather, comfortable, closed-toe shoes like boots or sneakers are the only practical choice.
How to Safely Explore La Candelaria
  1. Go During the Day: The neighborhood is vibrant and full of people during daylight hours. This is the best time to explore the museums, plazas, and street art.
  2. Be Vigilant at Night: The area becomes much quieter and has a reputation for muggings after dark. If you have dinner here, it's safest to take an Uber directly to and from the restaurant door rather than walking around.
  3. Don't "Dar Papaya": Keep your phone in your pocket when you're not using it. Don't wear flashy jewelry or carry an expensive camera around your neck. Be discreet.
  4. Stick to Main Streets: Avoid wandering down empty alleys or deserted side streets, even during the day. Stick to the well-trodden paths where there are other people around.

Resources & Further Reading

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